| RABAT
The fourth of the imperial cities, Rabat is a curious mix
of a long past and a highly modernised present. The city's glory days
were in the 12th century, when the then sultan used the kasbah (citadel)
as a base for campaigns against the Spanish. It was during this time
that the city's most famous landmarks sprang up. A haven for Muslims
driven out of Spain in the early 17th century and a capital city only
since the days of French occupation, Rabat's ambience comes from Islam
and Europe in fairly equal proportions. For every place of worship there
are three or four European-style cafes. Few of Rabat's residents are
involved in the tourist racket, which means you can stroll through the
markets without having to brace yourself against too much high-pressure
salesmanship.
The city's most famous site is the Tour Hassan, the incomplete
minaret of the great mosque begun by Yacoub al-Mansour. An earthquake
brought construction to a halt in 1755. Alongside is the Mausoleum
of Mohammed V, the present king's father. The Kasbah des Oudaias,
built on the bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, houses a former palace
which is now a museum of traditional art. Beyond the city walls
are the remains of the ancient city of Sala. Also known as Chella,
it has Morocco's best Archaeology Museum.
Between the city's landmark central park (Jardins Triangle de Vue)
and the main train station, you'll find most of Rabat's hotels and eating
spots. The most obvious cluster of cafes and bars here offer up all
the beer, kababs, pizza, olives and ice cream you might need. The Mohammed
V international airport is a short ride east of the city and there are
plenty of shuttle buses.
CASABLANCA
Of all the cities in all the world, Hollywood chose this one to
immortalise as the classic exotic colonial outpost. Those looking
for a latter-day Humphrey Bogart round every corner will be disappointed.
This is no sleepy dive. Morocco's largest city and industrial centre,
it's a huge brash metropolis where traditional Moroccan burnouses
(cloaks) seem out of place among the natty suits and designer sunglasses.
This port city was deep in decline until the French decided to remodel
it with wide boulevards, public parks and imposing Mauresque (Moorish)
civic buildings. Casablanca's medina, or ancient quarter, is
worth a look and the Hassan II Mosque here is one of the largest
in the world. At the square known as the Place Mohammed V you'll
find the country's most impressive examples of Mauresque architecture.
'Casa' shares the Mohammed V airport with Rabat, and regular flights
are available to and from Europe and the Middle East.
MARRAKECH
One of Morocco's most important cultural centres, Marrakech is a
lively former capital famed for its markets and festivals. Its wildly
beating heart is the Place Djemaa el-Fna, a huge square in the
old city. Rows of open-air food stalls are set up here and mouth-watering
aromas fill the air. Jugglers, storytellers, snake charmers, magicians,
acrobats and assorted benign lunatics take over the rest of the space.
The souqs (markets) here are among the best in Morocco and a
large budget hotel strip makes exploring the old city area cheap and
easy.
Among the many attractions of the ancient quarter is the rare Almoravid-style
Koubba Ba'adiyn mosque annex, the magnificent Koutoubia
mosque and the Palais Dar Si Said (Museum of Moroccan Arts).
Trains and buses to this inland city run regularly from Casablanca and
Rabat.
FÈS
The oldest of the imperial cities, Fès is arguably the symbolic
heart of Morocco. Its labyrinthine streets and crumbling grandeur add
to its air of intrigue and self-importance. The medina of Fès
el-Bali (Old Fès) is one of the largest living medieval cities
in the world and the gates and walls that surround it make it all the
more magnificent. Unlike many walled cities of this vintage, Old Fès
hasn't burst its banks. The population has instead exploded out towards
the south-west and spread to the hillsides in an arc stretching north
and south of the new city.
Within the old city, tucked among roughly 9,400 streets and alleys,
is the towering Medersa Bou Inania, a theological college built
in 1350. Not far from here the henna souq is a market specialising
in the dye used for colouring hair and tattooing women' hands and feet.
Next door to the old walled city is Fès el-Jdid, home
to the city's Jewish community and many spectacular buildings. In between
the two self-contained cities is the Dar Batha, now the Museum
du Batha. Fès is best reached by train from Rabat, Marrakech
or Tangier.
TANGIER
While it's a compelling sort of city and a popular port of entry
for tourists, Tangier is also home to some of the world's best hustlers.
Perched on Morocco's northern tip, its international flavour remains
strong; as does its reputation for inspiring shady deals and foreign
misfits.
The city's central Petit Socco is the focus of attention. Back
in the days when Tangier was a neutral international zone, this area
provided the background for the seediest of lifestyles and it hasn't
completely lost this air. Paedophile scenes aside, it is the kasbah
that interests many visitors. It contains the 17th-century Dar el-Makhzen,
the former sultan's palace and now a good museum. The nearby American
Legation Museum is a fascinating reminder that Morocco was the first
country to recognise American Independence. Tangier is five hours from
Rabat by train, and an easy ferry ride from Spain or Gibraltar. |
